Today: Dec 07, 2024

Is Hypebeast streetwear still hype?

Screenshot

By Jay’Mi Vazquez

Managing Editor

photo | Instagram
Lines outside of the Supreme store in New York City in 2016.

Over the past decade, streetwear brands like Supreme, VLONE and A Bathing Ape, commonly known as BAPE, have reigned supreme as the epitome of cool, high-demand fashion. However, in recent years, these brands have begun to show signs of falling off.  

Once heralded as symbols of exclusivity, creativity and cultural relevance, they have increasingly become victims of their own success and overexposure.  

While the rise of streetwear was initially driven by authenticity, limited releases and a sense of belonging to a select subculture, the very factors that made these brands special are now contributing to their decline. 

One of the biggest reasons these brands are falling off is the commodification of their identity.  

Supreme, for instance, became a global sensation partly because it was seen as an underground, rebellious brand that catered to skaters, artists and subcultural movements.  

Its limited drops, which generated frenzied lines and online raffles, were a large part of what made it so desirable.  

However, as Supreme expanded into mass retail, collaborating with corporate giants like Louis Vuitton and Nike, it began to lose the very essence that made it unique.  

The brand’s logo, once a mark of exclusivity, became ubiquitous. Seeing Supreme stickers on everything from backpacks to skateboards to McDonald’s packaging made the brand feel less like a coveted treasure and more like a mainstream commodity.  

The magic of Supreme lay in its rarity, and once that was diluted, its appeal waned. 

VLONE, another brand that skyrocketed in popularity in the mid-2010s, has also experienced a significant decline in relevance.  

The brand was closely associated with A$AP Bari and the A$AP Mob, gaining a cult following thanks to its association with influential figures in hip-hop and street culture.  

But much like Supreme, VLONE became a victim of its own hype.  

The demand for the brand was partially built on its limited releases and tight connections to underground hip-hop culture.  

However, the excessive collaborations and retail drops over time stripped VLONE of its mystique.  

The brand’s aesthetic, which initially felt fresh and daring, started to feel repetitive and derivative.  

The overexposure caused by collaborations with every major artist and fashion figure eventually left the brand feeling like a cheap novelty rather than an exclusive cultural symbol. 

BAPE is another example of a streetwear brand that has struggled to maintain its cultural cachet.  

In the late 2000s, BAPE’s camo patterns and ape logos were synonymous with streetwear cool. Collaborations with high-fashion brands and iconic figures like Kanye West elevated its status as well. 

However, BAPE’s wide-ranging collaborations — spanning from Pepsi to NBA jerseys — made the brand more accessible and less desirable.

 The very collaborations that were meant to keep the brand relevant in a changing market also watered down its once-exclusive image.  

Instead of maintaining its status as an aspirational brand for those in the know, BAPE became increasingly mass-market and detached from the subcultures that originally built it.  

In recent years, the brand’s offerings have felt stale, and its former edge has been blunted by a market saturated with its signature camo print. 

The overarching issue with Supreme, VLONE and BAPE is that they all failed to evolve beyond their original formulas.  

Streetwear is a fast-moving, trend-driven industry, and what’s hot one year can quickly become irrelevant the next.  

These brands did not necessarily age well because they did not reinvent themselves; instead, they leaned heavily on their past success, relying on the same designs and strategies that once made them great.  

By flooding the market with too many releases, too many collaborations and too many products, they reduced the scarcity and exclusivity that made them special. 

In addition, the new generation of consumers is savvy and more attuned to trends and brands that are perceived as authentic or on the cutting edge.  

Labels like Fear of God, Off-White and A-COLD-WALL have capitalized on the desire for both exclusivity and social commentary, offering more innovative designs and making a stronger cultural impact.  

These newer players have resonated with a youthful audience that values individuality and creativity over the brand name. 

In the fast-paced world of streetwear, brands must continue to evolve, adapt and challenge conventions to maintain their relevance.  

Unfortunately for these once-dominant brands, their reliance on the very principles that made them popular has led to their stagnation.  

They may have been revolutionary in their time, but without innovation, their time at the top is no longer.

A$AP Mob during the rollout for VLONE in 2016.

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